We could be (Antarctic) heros

The question that has daunted many a Rothera winterer since ‘way back… way back…’: is it a holiday, is it work? No! It’s the ‘BAS Winter Trip’. The answer, incidentally, is a combo of the two.

Out of the 22 wintering staff on base five are Field General Assistants, or Guides in the real world, and the winter trip consists of each of us punters being given a guide to ourselves and told we can go on a real Antarctic expedition to anywhere we want (within reason) for up to six days. We can climb Antarctic mountains, ski or board down, hike, camp, boating, and man hauling (for the slightly deranged!) or simply taking it easy in the local area. This is kind of a cool BAS perk if the truth be told… no other Antarctic operator allows staff these sorts of excursions away from base, and this is way outside the remit of the tourist industry. It is also the worlds best staff retention program ever devised by any organization… ever!

I myself chose a two day distant ski-doo journey to the west of the island to explore the old abandoned BAS research base Carvajal, along with my guide Mad Lizzie, with Disco, Kenny, Scott the Scot and Roger Roger; and this ladies and gentlemen, is our story of survival in the extreme Antarctic outback…

Those of you who have been camping before will know the drill. A backpack packed full of essentials and a good book; the extravagant amongst us may use the car and take along some luxuries, like a gas cooker for example. But in true BAS style we take over one ton of equipment for a week trip! Two full sledges worth. There is enough food and fuel in those boxes for two people to survive 40 days in a tent if the weather breaks! No, I am not exaggerating. Forty days… oh what to give up while stuck in a tent! Sanity maybe?

So 5:00am Friday 23rd, gentlemen: start your engines.

The only way (by doo) to get to the other side of Alidade Island, is to ~insert scarey lightning sound effect~ travel through McCallum’s Pass ~insert scary lightning sound effect again~. McCallum’s pass is only known for one thing: Crevasses. Crevasses are only known to do one thing; produce big gapping holes for people and doo’s to fall through. And it wasn’t funny. Not at all.

But once through the pass the journey was amazing, real Antarctica beckoned. With Fuchs Piedmont to my right, which is white and flat as far as the eye could see, and the mountain ranges of Adelaide to my left. Stunning scenery.

Later that afternoon we arrive at our destination! The base being down at the bottom of another crevasse plagued ice slope! More flagging required, with myself having the dubious honor of planting this seasons first flag!


Once down the slope we meet the incumbent inhabitants of Carvajal… tens of thousands of fur seals! And what odd creatures they are too. Why nature designs a highly communal animal that is so aggressive is beyond me. They bicker all day long.

They weren’t too impressed with us initially either, big lumbering orange bipeds smiling saying “heeeelllllooooooo” is not their idea of a laugh. Attempting to bite us was. Aggressive little blighters. Our other neighbors were 20 or so Elephant seals doing a mightily fine impression of Jabber the Hut, and two penguins!

Morning!

One of the great things about sharing an abandoned base with only five other people is that you can choose from an entire wing where to sleep, which sounds wonderful… in theory. Digressing slightly: I had many a reference from friends regarding the ‘Shinning’ before departing on this gig and it all came to an actuality at Carvajal. I’m telling you, the only thing missing from this photograph are the twin girls on their tricycles… this corridor was truly terrifying!!!

But in actual fact it was a very relaxing time, lots of reading, cooking, drinking, sitting on cliff faces watching the wildlife and sunsets… with no base hassles :-0

As with any ‘holiday’ the end comes around quickly and the journey home was soon to be made. Due to weather and low contrast McCallum’s Pass was not possible – so camping Antarctic styley, and back to base in the morning!

I am now an official Antarctic hero (in my mind anyway!!!)